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Lexington is a fairly dog friendly town, and it it home to some of the most popular dog parks in Kentucky. Every time one of my clients tells me that they take their dog to one of these parks, my response is that they need to find another activity to do with their dog. Many of these clients are upset at this suggestion. When I dig a bit deeper and listen to their dog park stories, I often find that they have experienced the very things that dog trainers are concerned about when it comes to the dog park environment. I have experienced these situations first hand when I got my first dog. I used to be a dog park regular.

My Dog Park Journey

My first dog, Zoe, was a bit of a mess when I got her. She was 4 months old and had never left the farm that she was born on. I wanted to make sure that she relieved plenty of socialization, and I was thrilled when I saw that they were building a dog park just down the road from my house. I am grateful to this day that the park was not operating when Zoe first came home (more on dog parks and puppies later). As soon as the park was built, I started to take Zoe a few times every week. It looked idyllic when I would drive up; dogs frolicking in a wide open field, little agility tunnels for the dogs to play on, and people relaxing at picnic tables while their dogs played.

Reality, however, was much different from my idealistic idea of the park. The first few times that I went, things went well. However, with each visit I started to notice more and more items of concern. It started with a dog that would not leave Zoe alone. By this point, Zoe had become quite social with other dogs, and played very appropriately with dogs at the park. This particular dog started playing with her, and it began as a mutually fun game. However, when Zoe decided she wanted to take a break, this dog kept harassing her. The owner of the dog was off chatting with his friends, completely oblivious to his dog’s behavior. Not wanting to interfere with somebody else’s dog, I allowed it to continue until the dog pushed Zoe to her breaking point, and she snapped at him. After that situation, I started being more of an advocate for Zoe, to make sure that the park was fun for her and she did not get overwhelmed.

My eyes also got opened to more issues. People started to get too comfortable in the dog park, and would bring all kinds of delightful things, including tennis balls, frisbees, dog treats, and squeaky toys. Resource guarding became a common occurrence, and one dog was banned from the park for attacking another dog over a ball. The aggression from some of the dogs was not just occurring in these situations. Some people were taking blatantly aggressive dogs to the park, hoping that some free play time would be the key to socializing Cujo. More dogs were banned, and I stopped taking Zoe to that dog park. I found a dog beach with lots of well adjusted dogs, and that became our new spot.

The incident that led me to never enter a dog park again happened when I was at the dog beach with Zoe. At this point I was trying to be more careful with her, scoping out all of the dogs and owners before I let her play. On this particular day, we had come to the beach and I recognized all of the dogs there as being well trained, social dogs who we regularly hung out with.

I had been playing with Zoe for about 15 minutes, when a new dog walked onto the beach. As soon as this dog saw the others, he started to hackle up and key in on the most active of the dogs. I did not want to be anywhere near this dog with Zoe, and I called her back to me so that I could take her off the beach. Right before she got to me, the people let the new dog off the leash. He made a beeline for Zoe, and grabbed her by her back, refusing to let go of her. Fortunately I was close enough to her that I could pull the dog off, and a park ranger witnessed the entire thing. After making sure that Zoe and I were okay, he took control of the situation and made these people remove their dog from the beach.

I am extremely grateful that the situation was not worse than it was, and that Zoe escaped any serious harm during our dog park days. I pass by a dog park regularly when I am training client dogs downtown, and I often observe the dogs inside. So many of the things I see could rapidly turn into dangerous situations, and in the past few months alone I have seen two serious dog fights occur at the park. Some of the horror stories that I hear from clients describe even worse situations.

Dog Park Problems

From a training and socialization perspective, the dog park environment does far more harm than good. Even if every dog in the park was a social butterfly, you are placing your dog into a totally uncontrolled environment. When you let your dog be totally free in an uncontrolled environment, bad habits often start to form. Your once picture perfect recall will fall apart if your dog realizes that these other dogs are way more fun than you are. You have no control over who brings their dog in, and what the dog’s temperament will be like, so frequently there will be incompatible dogs that are thrown together without ever having a proper introduction. Socialization should occur in a controlled manner so that you can ensure that your dog has a positive experience, and that is not possible in a dog park.

Coming from a vet tech background, I have another huge concern with dog parks: disease. There is nothing more heartbreaking than when a puppy comes into the clinic with parvo. It’s expensive, it’s difficult to treat, and it is often fatal. More often than not, parvo puppies that I saw were regularly around unfamiliar dogs of unknown vaccine history, and many of them had visited the dog park several times before they contracted the disease.  When you socialize your puppy at a reputable training facility, the vaccine history of the other dog’s is verified, and the facility is regularly sanitized. At the dog park, you have no idea what a given dog is vaccinated for, what they might be carrying, and where they have been previously. Many park goers do not pick up after their dog, and the ground in there is a dangerous place for a puppy to be.

Big Risks, Small Rewards

Another major concern with small dogs and puppies is risk of injury with uncontrolled play. Even though many parks have a small dog section, I see people bringing their small dogs into the large dog area. Dogs with high prey drive, such as sighthounds, herding breeds, and larger terriers, can see a small dog as a potential prey item. This can lead to dangerous situations, and the size difference means that the small dog is not coming out on top. Small dogs can also be victim of simple over exuberance, and more than a few puppies have broken legs by being trampled by larger dogs.

​Some of the worst dog park stories that I’ve heard involve people being bitten or mauled. I cringe whenever I see people bringing small children into the dog park. Even if every dog in the park is friendly with children, the risk of being run over and knocked to the ground is high. And that is a pretty big if. Children are the number one victim of dog bites, and most of the dogs that you will encounter at a dog park do not have enough manners and obedience to respect your child’s space. If a large, unfamiliar dog ran up to your child on the street, you would likely be very concerned, but the same concern does not seem to register with dog park visitors.

There are so many wonderful activities that you can do with your dog that are far safer than going to the dog park. Zoe spends her days playing frisbee, swimming in the pool, and playing with dogs that I know and am comfortable with her being around. Never again will I take a dog into a dog park, and I strongly recommend that you adopt the same policy with your dog. It only takes one incident to leave your dog seriously injured and afraid of other dogs. Let your dog get free running time on a long line or after teaching an off leash recall. Let him play with other dogs that you know and that match his personality type. Find fun games to play with him to burn both his physical and mental energy. The dog park is just not work the risk.

Merlin is a lovely young pit bull who was rescued by his owners after he was abandoned by his previous owners. He is generally a good boy, but had a few issues with impulse control. This was especially true around food. He struggled with behaving during meal times at home. My job was to go in and teach him reliable obedience and establish some new rules for him. Merlin also needed to be shown that those rules are still in place even under heavy distractions.

Merlin’s Training Plan

Merlin made great progress with us during his time in training. As with all dogs, he started his training with some “home field” advantage, and then we gradually added more and more distractions. Once he was highly reliable at the kennel, we took things on the road and started working obedience in public. Our field trips included local parks, pet friendly stores, and his own neighborhood.

We also tailored the training to his individual needs. We did lots of food refusal exercises and impulse control around food and toys. This is a common issue that we see with working type dogs, but it can be easily worked on. Training like this also transfers over into other areas, and helps dogs to ignore anything the environment throws at them.

Once Merlin was able to perform the same in a new public place as he was at our facility, we then started taking him back to his home environment. We also started his go home lessons with his owners, and showed them how to handle him and how to speak his language. Now he is an excellent role model for the pit bull breed, and is thriving back home.

If you want your dog to be trained to the same standard that Merlin was, contact us to schedule a consultation with Sam.

Dogs on Furniture: The Controversy

When people bring home a new dog or puppy, sooner or later they will see that dog clambering onto the sofa. Some people are delighted, and are happy to cuddle up with Fluffy for TV time. Others are horrified and do not want to risk the dog damaging their living room furniture. Some people may even be worried that their dog getting on the couch is a sign of dominance, or the dog trying to be the “alpha”. The real answer is that there is no one rule that suits all dogs when it comes to this area. Different situations require different rules and boundaries for sharing your furniture with a dog.

Possessive Dogs

The group that I say across the board should not be on your couch or bed are dogs who have demonstrated possessiveness of your stuff. As a dog trainer, I get calls from people where the dog isn’t allowing a spouse into bed, and is keeping guests from getting onto the couch. This type of behavior is a sign of deep relationship problems with the dog that extends way beyond just furniture. It needs to be addressed with a trainer, but in the mean time, the dog needs all furniture privileges to be revoked. This behavior is inappropriate and dangerous.

The cause of this type of behavior is often too much freedom in the dog’s life. Dogs thrive when given structure, and some dogs need more than others. Many people want to let their dog have free reign of the house, and this can lead to the dog developing the wrong idea about who is in control of the couch. This is an especially big issue when the dog is new to the household, and is establishing what your household is all about. Dogs are opportunists, and a new dog with a pushier temperament may try to stake claim to the most comfortable spot in the house.

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Dogs with possessiveness issues over furniture often show behavioral issues in other areas. They may resource guard other things, such as food, toys, or even their personal space or their owner. This behavior can worsen over time, and lead to the dog becoming more and more aggressive in their responses. Stopping this behavior is not a cookie cutter process, because each dog is an individual, but in all cases it involves establishing a management plan around the house. This plan can include obedience training, more rules and boundaries, off limits areas, controlling how resources are given, consequences for bad behavior, and giving the dog appropriate outlets and “jobs”.

Living Room Parkour

We also see another type of behavior issue surrounding furniture. This one can actually be amusing to those on the outside looking in, but isn’t nearly as funny to those who are living with it. Commonly seen with young, high energy dogs, “living room parkour” is my affectionate term for the behavior of sprinting around the room, leaping onto and over furniture, and basically turning your house into an obstacle course.

This behavior rarely is present all the time, and the dog may be very laid back and sleep on the furniture at times. When the mood strikes though, these dogs start bouncing off the walls, and can do a lot of damage. I’ve seen couches with big gouges in them, upholstery ruined, and people injured when the dog tries to use the couch as a trampoline.

This group of dogs can be managed a little differently. We may institute a protocol where the dog is allowed onto furniture only when invited, and that they are crated when alone, to prevent this behavior. Another possibility is giving the dog a place bed near to the couch and giving them a structured job to do while also allowing them to relax with you. Most of these dogs will be able to have furniture privileges when they have matured some and when rules are in place.

The Good Dogs

Some dogs will never give you issues about your furniture. They will lay there calmly, move over when you want to sit down, and be a pleasant addition to any family night or afternoon siesta. If you are fortunate enough to have one of these dogs, the option is up to you. If you don’t want dog hair in your bed, no worries. Your dog will be just fine not being allowed on furniture, and will adapt very quickly to that rule being in place. If you do want to let your dog sleep with you, go right ahead. Some people are surprised that a dog trainer would allow their dogs onto furniture, but my competition dog sleeps at my feet most nights.

If you do fall into this category, there are a few boundaries that I would still recommend you put into place. You should always be able to ask your dog to leave a piece of furniture, which we teach as the “off” command in our programs. Sometimes you should have your dog sleep somewhere else, whether that be a different room, a crate, or an x-pen. This helps the dog keep a healthy frame of mind when separated from you, and helps prevent co-dependency issues.

Which Category is Your Dog?

Your dog is an individual, and so are you, so the rules surrounding furniture can vary quite a bit. Pay attention to your dog’s mannerisms when sitting on the couch with you, and work with a professional trainer to help you determine if any issues need to be addressed. If you have just brought home a new dog, especially a dog with an unknown background, make a point to not allow the dog onto furniture for the first month or two. Let them earn that privilege once they have consistently demonstrated appropriate behavior in other areas.

Harnesses Are A Common Sight

More and more people are becoming dog owners in the United States, and at some point they have to decide what kind of restraint to use on their dog during walks. Some people go with a regular buckle collar, some choose a martingale, and many decide to go with one of the various harness designs available on the market. Harnesses have many great applications, but their real purpose is poorly understood by most dog owners.

Dogs Who Pull On Leash

A common reason that people switch to a harness from a flat collar is that their dog is pulling hard into the leash, and they are worried about them chocking themselves. This is a concern that is not unfounded, and it isn’t appropriate for a dog to constantly be having pressure on their throat. However, harnesses do not impede pulling. In fact, harnesses make it much easier and more comfortable for a dog to pull.

A typical harness distributes body weight evenly across the chest, which does not press on sensitive areas, and allows the dog to put their full strength into pulling. This can be a great thing for working dogs such as sled dogs, who we want to be able to pull comfortably for long distances. This is not, however, a good thing for your family pet.

No Pull Harnesses

In an attempt to change the fact that harnesses make Pulling more comfortable, some manufacturers have developed “no pull” harnesses. There are several different models, but the general idea is that they restrict movement and make it harder for a dog to pull into the leash. Unfortunately, these harnesses very rarely achieve what they are supposed to.

There is some concern amongst the veterinary community that no pull harnesses cause damage to shoulders and can alter your dog’s gait. This makes sense when you consider the fact that the harnesses typically tighten on the chest and pinch the front legs closer together.

The no pull harness is also a training tool that is not well suited for teaching a solid loose leash walking or heel command, which is the gold standard for a truly well mannered dog. The harness does not allow control of the head, is not precise, and can be hard to fade down to a collar because the harness itself is a big cue to the dog. There are several other tools that are easier to use, easier to fade, and are less likely to confuse the dog.

Good Uses for Harnesses

There are some fantastic uses for harnesses and you will find harnesses specially designed for these purposes. Sled dogs are perhaps the biggest one, as these dogs could not perform their jobs at all without them. Weight pull and draft dogs are in a similar boat, and each sport has a type(s) of harness specific to them.

Harnesses are super useful for sports like AKC tracking where the dog is supposed to lead the way and may be pulling quite hard. The same is true for detection dogs in various fields. Sometimes people in the sport of flyball will use harnesses with a handle on the back to make it easier to hold onto a dog who is fired up and ready to run.

Harnesses are also a big tool used by people training protection dogs, for both sport and working applications. Puppies doing bitework are encouraged to be very excited and the harness makes it comfortable for them to express themselves through pulling and barking. Harnesses are also good for protection work because of one of the reasons they are a poor choice for teaching heeling: just wearing a harness is a big cue that the dog can use to predict that something he is familiar with will happen. This can help build up motivation for an activity that we want to be fun and high drive.

Guide dogs have specially designed harnesses that allow them to guide their visually impaired partner. Mobility dogs usually wear a design of harness with special padding that allows them to take on the weight of their handler to assist with balance or to pull them up the stairs.

Lastly, the harness has great uses in the veterinary field. Some dogs physically cannot wear collars due to throat or back issues, and harnesses are perfect for those dogs. Special harnesses can also allow owners to help support a dog who is recovering from orthopedic surgery.

Find the Best Tool for Your Dog

Not every training tool is well suited for every dog, but we rarely recommend harnesses for dogs who are not doing one of the sports listed above. Their propensity to encourage behavior problems makes them a poor choice for most pet dogs. If you cannot decide what type of collar to get for your personal dog ,contact a trainer who can help you make the right decision.